By now, you’ve probably seen the shiny, luminous glow of “glazed doughnut skin” all over Instagram and TIkTok. The trend, made popular by Hailey Bieber, involves layering a cocktail of serums and acids on your face, followed by a generous slathering of a thick occlusive like petrolatum to lock it all in overnight. The promise? Waking up dewy and radiant in the morning.
It’s visually appealing. It feels indulgent. But behind that glossy glow? Potentially a mini mine field. For many women in their 30s and beyond, when skin becomes more reactive and less forgiving, the trend is leaving behind irritated cheeks and breakouts. Dr Amy Chahal, founder of FutureSkin, one of the Eastern Suburbs’ most popular cosmetic doctors, tells us why the glazed doughnut skin trend might be costing your skin barrier.
What the Internet Doesn’t Show You
At first glance, the trend seems harmless. Who doesn’t want hydrated, glassy skin? But what you don’t see in those 30-second reels is the aftermath. Dr Amy Chahal sees it every day: over-exfoliation, product overload, and skin that’s struggling. When you trap powerful actives like retinols, acids, or vitamin C under an occlusive, you create the perfect storm for inflammation and barrier breakdown.
This isn’t just a momentary flare-up. It can take months to undo, sometimes with prescription-strength care.
The Science of the Skin Barrier
Your skin barrier is your body’s first line of defence. It’s made up of lipids (fats), ceramides (waxy molecules that hold skin cells together), and natural moisturising factors that help keep moisture in and irritants out. Think of it as a brick wall. Not the most glamorous image when we’re talking about glowing skin, but stick with me: your skin cells are the bricks, and the lipids and ceramides are the mortar holding them in place, keeping everything sealed, smooth and protected. When it’s intact, your skin feels calm and resilient.
But overload it with too many products–especially actives–and you start to erode that protection. Your skin goes into stress mode. Yes, it looks glossy on the outside initially, but underneath, it’s inflamed and reactive. It’s essentially putting your skin in fight-or-flight mode every night. It might feel like self-care, but it’s often doing the opposite.
What You Should Do Instead
Trends belong in fashion. What your skin needs is understanding, consistency and restraint.
Instead of mimicking a routine you saw online, check in with your skin. Is it dry (lacking oil) or dehydrated (lacking water)? Are those breakouts a sign of congestion? Or is your barrier simply overworked and reacting? These answers matter more than what’s currently trending on social media.
Build a balanced, evidence-based skincare routine that supports your skin’s natural function rather than overriding it.
Start with:
- Cleanser: A gentle formula that doesn’t strip or leave your skin squeaky.
- Moisturiser: One that includes ceramides, lipids and humectants like glycerin and hyaluronic acid.
- Active Ingredients: Use only one at a time, such as a retinol, gentle exfoliating acid, or vitamin C, not all at once.
- Sun protection: Daily SPF is non-negotiable, even in winter or indoors.
- Barrier-supporting extras: Optional additions like niacinamide or panthenol if your skin needs extra care.
Dr Amy Chahal also mentioned that if your skin feels tight, red, or flaky, it’s not purging–it’s protesting. That’s your cue to simplify: cleanse, moisturise, protect. Nothing more for now.
Consider the season too. You may need richer moisturisers in winter, lighter ones in summer. Skin isn’t static, and your routine shouldn’t be either. Most importantly, treat skincare like a ritual, not a race. More products don’t mean better skin. More intention does.
When You Need a Bit of Support
Sometimes, you just need guidance to get back on track. That’s why Dr Amy Chahal created FutureSkin ( the first of its kind in Australia. Inspired by a popular skincare concept in Korea, they are bridging the gap between a skincare store and a private clinic, a place where you can talk to an expert in real time, ask questions, and get advice tailored to your skin.)
If you’re unsure whether to use a retinol or a repair cream or you’ve tried everything and still feel stuck–having expert support can make a big difference. Whether it’s a quick consult, help with product selection, or a treatment when your skin needs a reset, the right guidance can get you back on track.
The Takeaway (Your Face Is Not A Pastry)
Skincare trends move fast, but your skin needs conscious consistency and support. Don’t get swept up in the fads. Your face isn’t an experiment. It’s a living organ with evolving needs.
So before slathering on that heavy occlusive, pause. Ask yourself what your skin really needs tonight. Because, yes, we all love a glazed doughnut now and then, but it belongs on your plate, not your pillowcase.
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