How to Build a Dermatologist-Approved Skincare Routine (With Skin Cycling Tips)

While a lot of TikTok skincare trends can do more harm than good (homemade SPF, we’re looking at you), skin cycling is a viral technique that derms are happy to sign off on. Coined by New York dermatologist, Dr Whitney Bowe in a 2021 TikTok video, skin cycling is a four day routine that promises to brighten, smooth and decongest the skin with minimal irritation. In the three years since its online debut, skin cycling has found a place in the routines of skincare minimalists and multi-step obsessives thanks to its strategic simplicity and dramatic results.

So, after all that…

What is skin cycling?

Skin cycling is a four night skincare routine that staggers active and non-active ingredients to minimise irritation. The first night is for exfoliation, the second for a retinoid, and the third and fourth for recovery. By cycling different products each night, the skin can reap the benefits of active ingredients faster and deliver more noticeable results.

Skin cycling is also an effective way to streamline your evening routine into two or three alternating steps instead of one long, multistep nightly routine.

Should I be skin cycling?

Short answer? Yes. The beauty of skin cycling is that it can be tailored to suit your individual needs and goals whatever they may be.

As skin cycling maximises the effect of potent ingredients while minimising irritation, it is particularly useful for individuals looking to incorporate strong brightening, smoothing and anti-ageing formulas into their routines, and those with sensitive skin who can’t tolerate multiple actives at once.

What Products do I need to start a skin cycling routine?

The skin cycling essentials are an exfoliator, a retinoid, a recovery product and an SPF. When building your routine, consider your skin type (dry, balanced, oily or reactive) and goals (brightening, smoothing or clarifying) to pick products most suited to your needs. As the skin becomes accustomed to its cycle, ingredient concentrations can be intensified and even combined.

Night one: Exfoliate

Kickstarting your skin cycle with a cleanser, exfoliator and moisturiser will help to smooth, brighten, soften and clear the skin. We recommend using a chemical or enzymatic exfoliator as physical scrubs can cause irritation.

AHAs and BHAs are the most common chemical exfoliators and are available in a range of concentrations. AHAs work to loosen dead cells on the skin’s outermost layers to help fade pigmentation and smooth the skin. BHAs work to clear congested pores and dissolve dead cells to minimise breakouts and reduce inflammation.

Enzymatic exfoliators are the most gentle option and work by eating away dead skin cells. As they leave living cells untouched, enzymatic exfoliators work well for individuals with sensitive skin.

Shop our favourite chemical and enzymatic exfoliators:

Fresh Lotus Youth Preserve Resurfacing Dream Serum

A radiance-revealing AHA serum formulated to brighten pigmentation and smooth the skin.

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Paula’s Choice BHA 2% Liquid Exfoliant

A global best seller, this BHA solution works to clear the pores, balance oil flow and eliminate break outs.

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Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel

A two-step exfoliant pad that targets dullness and congestion. The blend of AHAs and BHAs gently lift dead skin cells, decongests pores and smooths texture, while green tea and chamomile help reduce sensitivity.

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Night two: Apply a retinoid

Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that work to brighten, clarify, smooth and regenerate the skin. They are available in a range of strengths and forms such as retinol, retinal, bakuchiol and tretinoin. They are also available in oil, serum, cream and balm formulations to suit all skin types and texture preferences.

As retinoids can cause dryness and irritation, the two rest days in a skin cycling routine are important for keeping the skin strong and hydrated. After cleansing, only a pea-sized amount is needed for the whole face and neck, and should be followed by a moisturiser. For extra sensitive areas like the sides of the nose and around the eyes, sandwiching the retinoid between two layers of moisturiser can prevent irritation.

Shop our favourites:

Kiehl’s Retinol Fast Release Wrinkle-Reducing Night Serum

A potent yet incredibly gentle 0.3% retinol serum delivers noticeable results in just two weeks.

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Murad Retinal ReSculpt Overnight Treatment

A retinal serum with a microencapsulated delivery system designed to smooth deep wrinkles and firm loose skin.

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ESK Ultimate A+

A 0.1% retinal cream infused with 4% niacinamide to clarify, calm and brighten the skin in one potent hit.

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Emma Lewisham Supernatural Oil

A plant based pregnancy safe retinol alternative that nourishes the skin while stimulating collagen production.

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A313 Vitamin A Retinol Cream Tube

This cult-favourite retinol is often whispered about as the real secret behind French women’s skin. With just 0.12% retinol, it’s gentle but surprisingly effective, making it ideal for beginners or anyone with sensitive skin. The texture is rich and balm-like (almost Vaseline) and cushions the skin without the usual dryness or post-application tightness.

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Night Three & Four: Hydration and moisturiser

To help heal, hydrate and strengthen the skin, the hero products of a skin cycle’s third and fourth nights are serums, moisturisers and oils. For balanced skin types, a gentle double cleanse followed by moisturiser might be all you need, but for dry or irritated skin, a hydrating serum and nourishing oil can help to speed up the healing process.